I wouldn't regret spending a night in any of those places, though I agree there are negative aspects to any one-night stop. We must spend one night in Avignon and Aix as that is part of the bike Itinerary. The house was destroyed in 1944 by an errant bridge-seeking bomb, but the four-story building behind it where you see the brasserie still stands (find it in the painting). Sabine: Avec plaisir. At Le Caveau de Gigondas, Sandra and Barbara await your visit in a handsome tasting room with a large and free selection of tiny bottles for sampling, filled directly from the barrel. In 1309, the French-born pope Clement V decided to move the papacy from Rome to Avignon. If you have just five days to spend in Provence, consider taking a road trip or a bike tour: both options allow you to pass through small villages and take in the region's famous scenery, stopping whenever you like to taste wines, tour castles, or snap photos of lavender fields. We stayed in Salon but it was just a base. Rick: So, you come into a place like this and you've got like, 50 different selections, how on earth do you know which wine you want? We just got back after spending a week in St Remy. All comments and suggestions welcomed So much to see, so little time. The Pont du Gard museum shows that a steady supply of water was an essential part of the Roman "art of living." We stayed in Salon but it was just a base. I am interested in Gigondas for the wine education they offer. The regional bus service (Edgard and ZOU!) Often it is even simpler than that. Rick: What is the terroir? Also we do enjoy staying in one location as long as possible. (I don't think you need to leave quite so early, though, for a, 8 o'clock flight.). Sabine: Well, the first thing you have to decide: What's for dinner? And knowing the term in French is even more helpful. France is nearly as big as Texas. In tumultuous medieval times, locals bricked up the arches, turning the stadium into a fortified town over a hundred humble homes were crammed within its circular defenses. They built a series of terraced pools, allowing the water to cascade down, powering eight separate grinding mills. In France, like almost anywhere in Europe, the fastest way from A to B is the autoroute or freeway. This time we're in the south of France mixing Roman ruins, fine wine, a little Van Gogh, and even a French bullfight. As for skip Camargue etc., that depends on your priorities. Vincent arrived in Arles on February 20, 1888, to a foot of snow. Visiting Arles, travelers tune into the story of Vincent van Gogh. The loudspeaker announces the reward various local businesses offer to the man who gets the ribbon. If the bull pulls a good stunt, the band congratulates him with a tune from the opera Carmen. Our last trip we spent four nights and still missed so much. Rick: They conceived it, like creating the instrumentation for a different composition, a musical composition. Taking full advantage of the round arch the Romans invented, it's made strong by gravity. We spent a day doing Nimes and Arles, a day in Aix (that was when they had the torrential rain last Oct so half of that day was literally a wash). Nice - This day trip is a bit of a stretch as Nice is about 2 hours from Aix en Provence. Fly out of Marseille today or, if leaving from Nice, drive to Antibes and spend your final day and evening there (sleep in Antibes). Logistically, I think you making some very smart choices: the day trip from Aix is a good way to see a little of Marseilles and make use of your time in that part of Provence. I prefer to stay in one place and do day trips, so I would recommend St Remy. ROME AUDIO Trastevere TOURS. Planning Your Provence & French Riviera Trip 1. :). Sabine: Absolutely! And just beyond any market you're likely to find the local gang playing boules. Join in, try the olivessniff that lavender of Provence. It's a mix or blend of anise and other herbs and you cut it, dilute it, according to taste. But of course, slow roads come with more memories. We like the Hotel Amandiere in the outskirts of St Remy; it has free off street parking, which is well worth considering. Orange and the Ctes du Rhne Starring Orange's remarkably intact Roman theater, plus the sunny Ctes du Rhne wine road, cozy villages, and fields of lavender, anchored by charming Vaison-la-Romaine. And we got free lip balm! This is some of the most rewarding work for our guidebookand enjoyable, too! Its so fascinating to actually see the layers of history here. And the freeways are doing their best to keep up the pace. It survives much as it was: narrow for traffic, and very wide for pedestrians who would promenade under their elegant mansions. And the city makes it easy. The French are world-class people watchers. I would skip Nimes, Avignon, Aix and substitute. These days, youll often find two versions one in French and one in English. But when the Revolution came and the bust of the king on the city hall was replaced by Marianne, the Lady of the Republic suddenly it became dangerous to be an aristocrat. We're staying at Htel Calendal. Have fun! And, of course, wandering the streets of small towns and eating. During that period Avignon grew from a quiet village to a powerful city. But today, Arles thrives again. 12 minutes is plenty of time to make a connection in almost any train station in France, unless you have mobility issues. Its famous fields of lavender and sunflowers inspire painters. Then day tripping somewhere from Nimes. Carved wooden cages called panetire hung from the walls, keeping bread away from hungry critters. Crossing acres of lavender and wispy vineyards, we explore the Ctes du Rhne and more wonders of the south of France. Towns are particularly lively on market days. 07/03/14 11:15 AM 16890 posts You are the perfect candidates to add a stay in Marseille. pick up car, drive to Avignon, stopping in Aix on the way; stay 2-3 nights, tour Pont du Gard, St Remy drive to coast (stop in Arles) to Hyres, St Maxime, Frejus or Antibes? Three of its medieval towers survive. I consider the Camargue a solid B-list sight that could be a very pleasant break from the rest of your itinerary, but skipable if you need the day for something else. The rooms sport Provenal decor and come in random shapes and sizes. You might want to pick a convenient place to stay in Provence to use as a base so that you aren't pulling up stakes daily. 4125 posts Hi Ellen, i recall your earlier post. Les Baux, Rouisillion, Arles bigger but yet an imp place to base if you can. Continue south and set up in Avignon. From everyone comments it seems theses towns are ok but Nimes and Ales hold more charm, so i was using Nimes as a base. There are no reservations; just wait at the metal gate on top of the bridge, on the side opposite the museum. Avignon's famous bridge was vital for trade in the Middle Ages. Can't cook without it. Over the last millenium this stunning temple has been used as a church, a city hall, a private stable, an archive during the Revolution, a people's art gallery after the Revolution, and finally as the monument you can visit today. We were in the Gordes area 3 nights and near Mt. The Hotel St Ferreol is a good choice; clean, well-appointed, with an excellent breakfast included. It's my favorite home base from which to explore France's Provence region. Please comment: 3 nights in Nice (Hotel Royal or another with ocean view); visit Monaco, Villefrance sur Mer via train visit Vence (by train?) All Aix-en-Provence Travel Forum Posts Resources Travel Tips Rail Passes (Honestly, St Remy is not really all that noteworthy unless you are there on market day. Les Baux was great, check out the Carrieres de Lumieres as well. Im here at Place dAlbertas with my Provence & the French Riviera guidebook, making sure our self-guided town walk is accurate and easy to follow. The bridge itself has no mortar just ingeniously stacked stones. But its sleek new train station, which welcomes France's bullet train, is a good example of how France is embracing modern technology and investing in public transportation. Perhaps Arles' most famous resident was a Dutchman Vincent van Gogh. Regarding the question about train connections - if your train is not late, a 12 min connection will be easy to make. Travel Details Script Clips Thanks for your advice. Sabine: That's right, you really get really that subtlety. From late June to late July, when the lavender blooms, the drive to Vaison-la-Romaine via Sault is a must (sleep in or near Vaison-la-Romaine; Monday arrival is ideal because market day is Tuesday), Day 7: Ctes du Rhne Villages. The Church basically bought up the town and made it Europe's largest construction zone. The emperor's agenda was to create a populace that was thoroughly Roman enjoying the same activities and the same entertainment, all thinking as one. Provenal cuisine loves garlic, olive oil, and herbs. I say this from my many visits to Provence area. (But careful, don't mix it up with the town of Als!) Researching my guidebooks in France comes with very good eating. Consider my guidebook's seaside walks in Cap Ferrat, or take the one-hour boat cruise from Nice's port, then spend the afternoon or evening in almost-neighboring Monaco (sleep in or near Nice), Day 4: Inland Villages. I think the value of Provence is found in taking time to experience the markets, enjoy a leisurely lunch and stroll around a town. Has anyone seen other examples of this in France? You can buy the ticket from the kiosk in the station, from a desk in the station (if there is one), or download the SNCF app on your phone (if you'll have a data plan). This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. Day 3: Coastal Route to Monaco. I love the ritual of bringing over the big blackboard. I also wonder if you would not be happier in a smaller town such as Isle or Arles, or perhaps just Gigondas, since you will have a car. Crossing acres of lavender and wispy vineyards, we explore the Ctes du Rhne and more wonders of the south of France. Spend all day in Cassis enjoying la vie douce. And they still proclaim the wonders of that age. Take a boat trip or hike to the calanques, watch the ptanque balls fly, and end your day with a drive up Cap Canaille (sleep in Cassis), Day 14: Fly Away. Noble French families moved in, kicking off the city's beautiful age, or "belle poque." Each night my co-author Steve Smith and I blitz the towns restaurant scene (often with a local food expert in tow) checking atmospheric squares, visiting places already in our book, and checking in on highly recommended new places. Are you going to have, shall we have grilled meat, are we going to have game, a strong, you know, a strong meat with a sauce? If you are lucky, the car will have a trunk, so items will be out of sight (and another reason not to travel with such big bags that everything won't fit in the trunk). Boules is the horseshoes of southern France. The floor was covered with sand to absorb all the blood. For the TGV, book your tickets ahead -- not only do prices go up closer to the travel date, but they can sellout. Explore Vaison-la-Romaine's upper medieval village and lower Roman city, then set sail along the Ctes du Rhne wine road and visit a winery or wine cooperative. Freestanding wedding armoires were given to brides by parents and filled with the essentials to begin a new life. Still lively, it's just the place for a pastis. It's both advertising "Pierre's Ptisserie" offers 100 and encouragement for the fighters. Our reward: a nice dinner at 10 p.m. And then, we do it again tomorrow! Steve and I enjoyed a morning food tour with Avignon food guide Aurelie, which had the bonus of a small group size. The Gigondas cooperative in the central square will give you an easy introduction to several different red wines to taste. I just like the idea of the river in Isle de la Sorgue. We've never been there, but we are very excited! It is such a different landscape, but I did have a wonderful time there. Wind up in Arles (sleep in Arles; big Saturday-morning market), Day 11: All Day in and near Arles. This bridge was a big deal even outside of its kiddie-tune fame. We'll fly into Marseille and get a rental car, return it there, then take the train to Paris. Carol, nothing against Marseilles but you can return your car at most any major train station the day of your departure from Provence. It's another fine example of Roman engineeringand Roman propaganda. (45:04). A few more notes about trains in France: I think you could change this slightly here. So, in that you have a reference on the soil, the slope, how much sun it gets. This square was the political and religious center of Roman Arles. But Avignon installed its own rival pope, and for about 40 years there were two disputed popes one in Rome and one in Avignon. If you are lucky, the car will have a trunk, so items will be out of sight (and another reason not to travel with such big bags that everything won't fit in the trunk). The arena still hosts colorful pageantry. Tour little Crestet and take a walk above Gigondas (sleep in or near Vaison-la-Romaine), Day 8: Orange and Chteauneuf-du-Pape. Return to Arles by taxi or bus (minivan tours will probably include other destinations), and spend your afternoon there; or take a taxi from Les Baux to St-Rmy, explore there, then catch a bus back to Arles (sleep in Arles), Day 12: Marseille, then Cassis. The most dramatic remnant of Roman Arles is its arena. Merchant: Vous voulez goter? To help you get started, we've listed our top picks for where to go in Provence and the French Riviera, and our plan for your best two-week trip. I can't recommend it. In the spirit of "give the masses bread and circuses," admission was free. Take a joyride through the Camargue (but if it's summer, when flamingos are scarce and mosquitoes aren't, skip it and visit Les Baux instead). Some tours are too slow and expensive. I have been to Provence a number of times and I prefer small villages and towns, I would not move as many times as you can see most of what you want from a few locations as noted above. I agree with some of the other commenters, that Arles is nice town to spend a day. In a side chapel was this faded painting from 1789: a triangle within a sunburst, celebrating reason rather than religion. That is why it takes an extra half hour to take the local to Avignon and the shuttle to Avignon TGV; then you have to wait for 45 minutes for the TGV to de Gaulle. This impressively preserved Roman aqueduct was built in about 19 B.C., and while most of it is on or below the ground, at Pont du Gard it spans a canyon on a massive bridge over the Gardon River one of the most remarkable surviving Roman ruins anywhere. The daredevil fighters, gripping special hooks, try to snare the ribbon. After being a trading center for centuries, Arles became a sleepy town of little importance in the 1700s. In Provence we have goat cheese, not cow's cheese. Sur le Pont d'Avignon There are many small towns and they each seem to have their own personality. How to choose? Nearly 2,000 years ago, gladiators fought wild animals here to the delight of 20,000 screaming fans more than 30 rows of stone bleachers extended all the way to the top of the vacant arches that circle the arena. Very interesting. I was thinking about 2 nights Arles, and 2 nights in Isle de la Sorgue, (trying to mix a city with a small town) but also want to daytrip to the Calanques from Marseille.
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